Having lived comfortably at the top of bucket lists for decades, it may come as no surprise that India is a true gem. Whether we’re talking wild and tiger-filled forests, enchanting island beaches or the shining palaces of Udaipur, there’s something magical in the air. It also happens to be one of the most diverse and striking countries we’ve ever laid eyes on, and better yet, there are lodges that come in every shade (and price tag), from tented jungle camps to glamorous royal abodes and dreamy spa retreats hidden in the mountains. India has the history, architecture and vibrancy to fill a library but to start you off, our country guide is the answer, and to send your imagination soaring, here’s our line-up for the absolute best lodges in India…
Chamba Camp Thiksey
Western Himalayas
Picture waking to the call of morning prayers and peeking out from a crisp, white tent flap to find other-worldly views of the Himalayas. At Chamba Camp Thiksey, this dreamy scene is made very real with all the creature comforts you could ever need – piping hot showers, four poster beds and butler-served chais and cocktails. Serenity comes very easily here and your days will be filled with good old fashioned R&R on your private deck, watching a game of the famous Ladakhi polo, trips to the serene Thiksey Monastery, and exploring nearby villages frozen in time. For the more adventurous amongst you there’s cycling in the foothills, rafting along melted rivers and trekking snowy mountain paths. Return to this glamping haven to enjoy dinner under the stars as royal tales are told in song and dance before nesting back into your luxury tent. At 3000m above sea level, the real world feels a long way off, just the way we like it.
SUJÁN Sher Bagh
Ranthambore National Park
When it comes to searching for the flash of stripes and arresting stare of a Bengal Tiger, Ranthambore National Park is king and you’ll find few better spots to rest your head after a day of tiger tracking than SUJÁN Sher Bagh. Set on the edge of the billion-year-old forest, Sher Bagh is an opulent tented camp with a heady mix of butler service, foot rubs under the fig trees, wild adventure and drinks to be shared around the campfire each night. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled here, a female tiger has been known to wander the pathways! Make yourself at home in one of the dozen fluttering canvas suites – pick one with a private jacuzzi and romantic outdoor shower to really up your stay. And we haven’t even mentioned the all-access pass to this sensational wilderness! Grab a pair of binos and wet your whistle with a deckchair safari as you spy on the waterhole rabble before taking intrepid drives in search of the famous tigers (along with sloth bears and crocodile-saturated lakes!). You can even enjoy horseback rides into the bird-rich foothills and get a taste of local history at the reserve’s formidable fort. Return for delicious thalis under the stars and fall asleep to the sounds of the jungle. Welcome to Rajasthan!
Xandari Riverscapes
Kerala backwaters
A tapestry of canals and lakes, where hidden villages and lush jungle brush along the waterline, the Kerala backwaters promise endless tranquillity and we’re not sure there’s any better way to explore them than from the water itself – on a restored rice barge no less. Picture yourself gazing out over the scenery (which changes form every hour) from your bed or rooftop lounger as dazzling kingfishers speed above the water – bliss. You won’t just get to see the sights but learn about them too – your captain, butler and personal guide are all locals who grew up on the water and know the area like the back of their hand. Not only will you be led along those peaceful tributaries but also through the winding canals of Old Alleppey village to get a taste of local life. Your days on Xandari Riverscapes are sealed with starlit nights on deck where mouth-watering Keralan cuisine, made with ingredients courtesy of local farmers and fishermen, is served on banana leaves. If it’s true seclusion you’re after, book the boat with just one room – you can thank us later.
The Oberoi Amarvilas
Agra
Almost rivalling the majestic Taj Mahal in its design, The Oberoi Amarvilas has been dubbed one of India’s most luxe hotels, and with its opulent decor and next level views, we’d heartily agree. Every detail in the sublime rooms seems perfectly hand-selected and the eye-catching, marble-clad interiors make for an apt setting to soak up spectacular vistas of the Taj Mahal (every room has one!). They’re especially dreamy over a cup of steaming chai at dawn or during candlelit Tandoori dinners on your balcony under the stars. Days in Agra should, of course, be spent exploring the magnificent Taj Mahal and your incredibly close proximity to this grand ode to love means you have a chance to try and beat the crowds bussing in from further afield. You’ll want to cool off after a long day of wandering and what better way to do that than by taking a dip in the multi-level pool, enjoying a luxurious spa treatment and sipping chilled drinks served by your dedicated butler. Between the Taj Mahal panoramas, exquisite service and fabulous surroundings, you might start to feel as though you’ve acquired a palace all of your own. Waking up to views of India’s shining icon from your sumptuous bed, what could be better?
Taj Lake Palace
Udaipur
Known to many India aficionados as the country’s most romantic city or perhaps, the City of Lakes, Udaipur is a captivating blend of regal history, deep spirituality and natural beauty. Built as a private island in the middle of glassy Lake Pichola, with lavish rooms (butler service included) and turrets of marble, the Taj Lake Palace manages to capture this spirit entirely. If you’re after a little pampering then the Jiva Spa is the spot for you, and you needn’t miss out on your surroundings as this spa has its own boat – spice-scented treatments, jacuzzi and all! And those surroundings we mentioned, they don’t get much better than the views you’ll find of lakeside palaces and Rajasthan’s far-off Aravalli Hills. You might be encircled by water but don’t worry, it’s simple enough to get your feet on solid ground and a short boat ride will drop you in the midst of age-worn havelis, temples, and head-turning stalls in no time. Once you’re back on your palace island, tuck into 5-star cuisine and vintage wines whilst looking out over the starlit lake. You’d think a place like the Taj only belongs in the movies (you might even recognise it from Octopussy) but luckily, it welcomes guests, and with quite a flourish too.
The Jalakara
Havelock Island
Off India’s east coast and across the Bay of Bengal, lies the Andaman Islands, a remote and relaxation-inducing oasis where shoes are always optional. Our choice of paradise is easily Havelock Island, where salt-crusted beaches, dense forests and softly jostling waves set the scene for paradise found. It’s impossible not to fall in love with the boutique hideaway that is The Jalakara. Rustic yet artsy and with some notably knock-out views, this beachside spot provides no room for the outside world (you won’t find Wi-Fi or flat screens here) but there are plenty of chic extras to distract you. There are six lush rooms to choose from and an ultra-private villa with deeply relaxing copper bathtubs and hammocks drifting in the breeze. Gaze over the treetops and lapping ocean from the infinity pool, dine on inventive seafood and enjoy more than a frisson of bliss at this island escape. It’s not all lounging about though, adventurous souls can get their kicks snorkelling or diving sensational reefs where tropical fish and seahorses dart between the coral, sea turtles glide past and the rare dugong may make an appearance. You can even kayak through the mangroves or hop aboard a long-tail boat to find an unblemished cove for a day of uninterrupted sunning. Like we said, paradise found.
Samode Palace
Jaipur
Enfolded in the mystical Aravalli Hills, Samode Palace feels like something from a fairytale and is the epitome of royal Rajasthan. With almost 500 years of history, chandeliered banquet rooms and princely suites, you can easily imagine the royal guests, aristocrats and stars who have visited before you. You can’t escape the palace’s heritage (a short wander will bring you across 250 year old frescoes and dazzling rooms like the Hall of Mirrors and Durbar Hall) but fear not, this hillside spot comes with all the bells and whistles you could want from a luxury hotel. There’s plenty to occupy your days here; drape yourself over a lounger by the marble infinity pool, get your fill of tranquil views (complete with scampering monkeys), head into the village of Samode to explore the Main Bazaar or take to the wind-swept dunes by horse or camel. Samode Palace keeps you out of the tourist fray but if you want to explore a little further afield, the pink-hued city of Jaipur and its incredible sights just might be alluring enough for a day trip. By night, dine on Rajasthani thalis in the candlelit terrace garden to the sound of folk music, and sink into your four-poster bed after a day of exploring.
Ananda in the Himalayas
Rishikesh
You may not expect to find a glitzy and cool-as-ice spa in the heady landscape of the Himalayas, but here she is…Ananda has captured the attention of the rich and famous across the world, and now it’s on your radar too. A bona fide retreat from any hint of hustle and bustle, Ananda is ‘cloud 9’ personified. With a whopping 24 treatment rooms (and an even more tantalizing menu), you could easily spend all day in a robe, being pampered to your heart’s content. If you’d like to throw a few good sights into the mix, the fascinating and spiritual city of Rishikesh is filled with higgledy-piggledy temples and, below, are the mountain-fresh waters of the River Ganges where rituals take place at dawn. You’ll never be far from these glorious views of mountain peaks and rushing rivers, which are on display from every serene yoga shala and private balcony at Ananda. Across its 100 acres, you’ll find a golf course, an inviting (temperature-controlled!) pool, and a selection of highly-luxurious villas, which come with a hot tub, private infinity pool and a butler to bring you chai in bed. Yes we think you’ll be perfectly content here, gazing out at the iridescent peaks from Sunset Point, the melody of Himalayan folk music drifting through the air, sigh.
Brijrama Palace
Varanasi
If your dreams of India are wrapped up in grand, old-world architecture, regal suites and a history that’ll knock your socks off, we’ve got you covered. Follow the spiritual trail to one of the world’s oldest inhabited cities, Varanasi, which sits beside the holy River Ganges. Arrive by Brijrama Palace’s private boat, docking in time to watch the sacred sunset ritual before the river becomes illuminated by lanterns and candles. By day, follow the hundreds of winding ghats that lead into the heart of Varanasi, to eye out hidden temples and get your fortune told in a smoky tea room. The service here has a personal touch, and with delightful antiques, silk drapes and finely-carved adornments, the rooms make a suitably swanky place to rest your head after an evening cruising the river whilst dining on the finest vegetarian food in the city. As one of the oldest buildings in this ancient city, Brijrama Palace really is something special…Be sure to take a ride in India’s first elevator before you go.
Ahilya By the Sea
Goa
India’s west coast has long been regarded as a favourite for sun-lovers and in the midst of sandy stretches lined with colourful seafood shacks and waving palms, Ahilya By the Sea is easily one of our top places to stay. Tucked away on the southern tip of Goa’s idyllic Coco Beach, terracotta-hued Portuguese mansions are decorated with art from the owner’s personal collection and come with more than a few places to put your feet up. When you’re not cooling off in the sea, there are two pools with a bevy of loungers under the frangipanis and deep-tissue massages at the spa. For a little more activity, perfect your lotus pose on the beach, explore the aged forts and tempting markets of Goa, and find your groove at a night party. The villas are filled with charm and a sense of fun (just check out the adult tree house) and meals are planned for whenever it suits you – time is never hurried in Goa.
