Conservation, cats and walking safaris in Kenya

Nairobi hides many an interesting pastime under it’s not-so-shiny reputation and, if you find yourself in the city, you may even wish you had a few more nights to spare.

Most of the action happens in the luxurious garden suburb of Karen. A typical day might include a morning with the orphaned elephants at the David Sheldrick Trust, time at the Karen Blixen museum (and a coffee and a slice of cake), and end with a giraffe ‘kiss’ at the centre at Giraffe Manor. We recommend hiring a driver to take you around the sights, and perhaps adding a dinner stop at one of the up-and-coming restaurants.

If you’re missing your daily wildlife fix - or desperate to get started – Nairobi is one of the only cities in the world to have a national park on the doorstep. It’s home to four of the Big Five (no elephant), game viewing is good, and there’s even a short walk at the entrance. A half- or full-day trip from the city is easy to arrange and your driver will stay with you for the duration.

The private farms and reserves of Laikipia offer a blockbuster of activities, each as unique as they are, and here more than anywhere, your experience will be determined by where you stay. Laikipa is renowned for its fantastic wildlife viewing – rhino, big cats, elephant, buffalo and wild dog are all present in sizeable numbers – but it’s up to you how you choose to find them…

Across the board, morning, afternoon and (usually) night game drives are on offer. We recommend using the drives as your base and adding on extras as you fancy. These can include walking safaris (around 3-4 hours) and hardier foot and fly-camping expeditions that involve walking through the bush by day and sleeping in a simple camp under the stars by night. Horse riding safaris are very common, and it’s not unusual to be offered a safari by camel! Also on the agenda are cycling and mountain biking trips, fixed-wing flights for game viewing by air, and a chance to spend time with the iconic Maasai and Samburu warriors who are very often landowners in the conservancies.

Half of Lewa’s allure is the neverending, peaceful scenery where hills roll into savannah grasslands and swamps. The other half is its long-standing reputation as a wildlife haven. The area showcases conservation at its pioneering best and is home to rare northern species including oryx, reticulated giraffe and one of the largest populations of Grevy’s zebra in the world.

There is ample chance to explore the conservancy including safari staples like morning and evening game drives to spot Lewa’s big cats, or more unusual horse or camel-back safari, where you’ll get unbelievably close to zebra and giraffe. Join an expert guide for a morning of rhino tracking, or enjoy the privilege of visiting a local Samburu village to learn about traditions and skills passed down across generations.

The King of the Kenyan safari, the Masai Mara is bucket-list travel down to a tee. The iconic wildlife (think big cats, buffalo, elephant, giraffe, zebra and the famous river crossings of the Great Migration from July to September) is matched by some of the most beautiful scenery in Africa – and there’s a lengthy list of activities to help you discover it all.

Morning and afternoon game drives are the bread and butter of a Masai Mara safari, and all-day expeditions are common especially during the Great Migration. There’s usually a bush breakfast under a shady tree or a mobile sundowner bar to complete the experience too. Specific to the private Mara Conservancies are walking safaris and night drives, both allowing you to get to grips with the landscape in different ways. In specific locations, early-morning hot air balloon flights are possible – definitely worth booking in advance – as are horseback safaris for varying capabilities. Finally, many camps have partnerships with local Maasai communities for a chance to join them in their daily life.

The island of Lamu is equally rich in natural beauty and history. Apart from its spectacular beaches, there is ample chance to enjoy the crystalline waters with activities including kayaking, kitesurfing, waterskiing, windsurfing and paddlesurfing, or sail between the smaller, secluded isles on a dhow. Delve below the surface on snorkelling or scuba diving expeditions, where you’ll admire the incredible marine life that dwells among Lamu’s reefs. A World Heritage Site and one of the best preserved Swahili towns on Africa’s east coast, Lamu Old Town is jam-packed with elaborate mosques, unique architecture and markets, which offer a glimpse into a bygone time.