If you’ve spun a globe and landed on Rwanda for your next destination, or you’ve been dreaming about a trip here for years, it won’t just be a physical journey you go on. The superlatives are all true when it comes to this beautiful country, from epic wildlife encounters (hello mountain gorillas) to the unyielding warmth of the people, and you’ll likely leave with a whole new perspective. In the last few decades, Rwanda has also welcomed some of Africa’s most luxurious hotels and we’ve managed to whittle it down to 10 of our favourite Rwanda lodges. We have a hunch you’re going to like them too…
Bisate Lodge
Volcanoes National Park
If you’ve got your eye on Rwanda, we’d hazard a guess that it’s the mountain gorillas that have drawn you here. If so, then try the lush forests of Volcanoes National Park, where days are spent trekking with the soulful gorillas, looking for rambunctious golden monkeys, and hiking one of the five famous volcanoes. Of all Rwanda’s lodges, Bisate is the undisputed King – the suites were all inspired by the royal palace after all. Designed to mirror the astounding natural scenery, the suites look like nests peeking out from the forested slopes, and interiors offer luxurious and much-needed comforts after a day spent in the wild: drinks by the fireplace, lip-smacking meals and a warming bath already run when you arrive home. The lodge is also a champion for gorilla conservation – chat with the in-house gorilla expert for more info – and reforestation, which makes waking up to views of mist-swirled Mount Bisoke all the more magical.
Magashi Camp
Akagera National Park
You might not have come across Akagera before, but let us be the first to say it’s well on its way to being the pride of Rwanda’s safari scene. Not only is the reserve one of the most diverse in the country, it’s also a pioneer of conservation. After a 20-year absence, lions have returned with gusto to the park – enjoy the startling sight of them snoozing in the branches of a tree – along with rare black rhino. So, where to stay? Located in the secluded north, Magashi Camp promises exclusive game drives as well as boat cruises on Lake Rwanyakazinga for spotting some of the largest groups of crocodile in Africa. In fact, you don’t even have to leave camp to wildlife-watch, for the six stilted suites are perched right on the shore. With roll-up canvas sides, you’ll enjoy the constant flutter of birdlife and the flow of plains game arriving to quench their thirst. Inside, Magashi is styled to the nines with nature-inspired chandeliers, Imigongo murals and dusky pink drapes, which you’ll draw back before falling asleep to the sound of chortling hippo.
The Retreat by Heaven
Kigali
The Retreat is a stylish, restful bolthole with a local flair. There are many reasons to love this place, and first up is the R&R factor. Whether you’re recovering from an action-packed adventure or readying yourself for one, The Retreat offers massages at the spa, open-air lounges to curl up with a new read, and private yoga on the terrace. Second is their eco-friendly philosophy – everything is solar-powered and the tropical gardens provide a wall of green to shelter you from the city (though there’s plenty to do in Kigali if you’re up for it). Designed by Italian architects, the interiors are simple and chic with light wooden decor, walls of glass, and vibrant local artworks. The rooms all have private verandas (some with two) and outdoor showers, while the luxury villas up the ante with a private plunge pool, living room and garden. When you’re not lying by the saltwater pool, enjoy banana wine and traditional cooking classes before tucking into dishes from all over the world.
One&Only Nyungwe House
Nyungwe Forest National Park
Volcanoes may be the chief of gorilla-spotting, but Nyungwe takes first prize for seeing chimpanzees in their natural home. Set on a hilltop in the middle of the rainforest, One&Only makes choosing a favourite lodge quite easy. From the gorgeous, artistic design of the bar, where you’ll sample brews from the on-site tea plantation, to the outdoor heated pool with dramatic mountain views and private treehouse dinners, you’ll be truly spoilt. The heavenly views are ever-present, and although spending all day in a jacuzzi in the spa sounds tempting, there’s an entire forest to explore – and it tends to steal the show. Set out on a trek to find the cheeky chimps as they forage, groom and tumble amongst the leaves, kayak across hushed lakes or survey the scene from a helicopter. Once in a lifetime? Maybe… And one to remember? Definitely!
Ruzizi Tented Camp
Akagera National Park
Escaping from the rush and busyness of life seems to come rather easily in Rwanda, and this is especially true at Ruzizi. Days here start at a gentle pace as the light shines through your tent flap, signalling that it’s time for a boat trip across Lake Ihema where hippos poke their heads out of the water and lion gather to drink. This is a regular picture in Akagera, Rwanda’s rising star and Central Africa’s largest protected wetland, and Ruzizi Tented Camp is our favourite place to stay. The nine tents are tucked along the forested shores, connected by walkways to the waterside dining room (complete with a pizza oven) and campfire deck. Solar-powered and eco-friendly, the camp has a light footprint, but forgoes none of the creature comforts. Take to a hammock for a lazy afternoon nap, and rest up before game drives and boat rides with the all-knowing guides. If there’s anyone who will get you in the right spot for a coveted leopard sighting, it’s these guys!
Singita Kwitonda Lodge
Volcanoes National Park
It’s easy to be at a loss for words when you first encounter Kwitonda Lodge. Guarded by a larger-than-life gorilla figure and named after one of the most famous primates, it’s closer than any other lodge to the forests of Volcanoes National Park and the vistas of the misty peaks are astonishing. Here, everything is connected to nature, from the volcanic rock walls to the finely-woven placemats on which you’ll be served farm-fresh dishes, and the on-site nursery that helps replenish the forest. There’s even a Conservation Room for getting up to speed on the history of the area before embarking on a hike to find the gorillas or visiting Dian Fossey’s grave. And then, at the end of the day, there are those bedrooms to return to…
Heaven Restaurant & Boutique Hotel
Kigali
Peaceful, laid-back and incredibly creative, Kigali is a charming city. Just along the street from the aforementioned Retreat, a favourite place to stay is the aptly-named ‘Heaven’, a welcoming spot that fits the bill without breaking the bank. Arriving at the hotel feels like you’ve come home – especially when there’s a glass of ice-cold banana beer at the ready and an inventive dish to try at the award-winning restaurant. Begin the day with yoga and the best breakfast in Kigali, before getting to know the city on a guided stroll through the art galleries, markets, and local villages. Or, take the road less travelled with horse rides and hikes into Mount Kigali. The hotel also has plenty to keep you busy; peruse the gallery, cool off in the salt water pool, or while away a few hours at the spa. Get into the spirit of things in the evening with an Urban Bush Dinner and mixology class, perhaps dressed in a new ‘Kitenge’ outfit made by the in-house tailor. That’s Heaven for you!
Virunga Lodge
Volcanoes National Park
If your safari-style is pared-back and cosy, try Virunga Lodge. Situated high on a hilltop with lakes laid out below and the clouded peaks of the Virungas behind, the lodge isn’t short on views. Inside, you’ll find a fire-warmed lounge and cande-lit dining tables, and the rooms are cheery, colourful bandas with 360° panoramas. There’s also no Wi-Fi – just you and the sounds of nature. You are well and truly in the land of the mountain gorillas here, and activities are focused on trekking to find these mysterious and precious primates. Also on the cards are walks to find mischievous golden monkeys, hikes beside a volcanic crater lake, or learning some moves with a local Intore dance troupe. Volcanoes National Park is famous for a myriad of reasons but only allowing small groups of trekkers makes the hour you spend with the gorillas even more special. And the perfect way to end a day? Cocktails in the sunken garden of Virunga Lodge as the sun sets over the water.
Hotel des Mille Collines
Kigali
Kigali may not draw gasps with its volcanic vistas and wildlife, but it does have a long, sometimes heartbreaking and often inspiring, history. The real-life setting of the events made famous by ‘Hotel Rwanda’, the Mille Collines has emerged from the country’s years of turmoil as a landmark of its own right. Sitting high above the city, the hotel offers a retreat from the hustle and bustle whilst also being close to the markets, galleries and museums. It also attracts quite a crowd on Friday nights and is a favourite waterhole with live music and a buzzing atmosphere. You’ll also find plenty of spots to recline and recharge, from hammocks by the garden pool to the thatched bar with sunset views of the valley. When you’re not horizontal, venture out for a little activity including biking and hiking on Mount Kigali, moto taxi rides through the city, and historical walking tours.
Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel
Volcanoes National Park
The magic of this hotel lies in the name and its incredible setting on the lush and leafy outskirts of Volcanoes National Park. On arrival, the hotel might seem like it belongs in a peaceful city suburb, but step onto the terrace and you’ll be proved wrong as you gaze at the ‘famous five’ volcanoes – a view that you’ll seek out at every chance. At first light, enjoy breakfast while soaking up the vista, before setting off in search of a habituated gorilla family, watching in wonder as they go about their daily routine, often looking curiously back at you. Also on the menu is hiking to find golden monkeys (in riotous troops of up to 100), bike rides, and canoe trips through the Valley of 1000 Hills. On your return, there are soothing massages in the spa and endless cool drinks by the pool. Perfect.
