The city of a thousand minarets, laid out like a twinkling carpet of turrets amid swirling sands and honking horns, all cut through by the glossy waters of the Nile, Cairo is enchanting. The oldest city in the Arab world, it’s characterised by resplendent ancient sights: intricate churches, synagogues and mosques (the beautiful Ibn Tulum is the most famous), formidable temples and bustling bazaars. Then there are the Pyramids of Giza. The only remaining Wonder of the Ancient World, they draw thousands of visitors looking to uncover their secrets. But with almost 20 million inhabitants and 22 districts, there’s a modern side to Cairo too; the one of bars and galleries and boutiques, where the ladies of the city gather and the young smoke shisha and dance into the small hours. A complete juxtaposition, both are indicative of this city of many faces.