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Instead of beaches and loungers separating the island and the Indian Ocean, Pemba Island has amazing natural lagoons and mangroves fringing much of its coastline. There are few white, sandy beaches, but this place is known for its attractions below the water. The reefs are healthy and the Pemba Channel's steep walls diversify the exotic underwater habitat, making it a snorkelling and diving haven. Fruit and spice trees scale the mountains further inland, a contrast to the island's flatter neighbours such a Zanzibar. This is not the place to meet many other tourists, as they come in small scale. Yet not a single one leaves disappointed.