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Careering over a dozen hilltops, almost perfectly in the middle of the country’s vertiginous coastline, the city of Valparaíso is offbeat Chile through and through. In its 19th-century heyday as the long-awaited stopover for ships travelling East to West, British and European immigrants ensured that grand, Victorian houses were ten-a-penny. Cue the arrival of the thunder-stealing Panama Canal, however, and fortunes faded fast. Today, it’s a higgledy-piggledy maze of rainbow-coloured houses and constructions that tumble down over, up and around the cerros (hills), linked by clanking funiculars and wooden staircases. Poets, artists and writers have replaced the European gentry, their bohemian works displayed on walls and streets all over town, and students spill from the university, carefree and relaxed. Spend your days wandering the UNESCO-listed quarters, getting lost in the museums and handicraft shops and admiring the views. By night, tuck into ceviche overlooking the boats it probably came from, accompanied by a glass of red from the vines beyond. Some might say Valpo is unexpectedly charming, but actually, it’s really just.. charming.
Eating is big business in Valparaíso and the best eateries are tucked away in the places you’d least expect: on stilts, under corrugated iron and on street corners. Leave your inhibitions behind and go where the smell takes you.
Escape the city and head to the beaches of Viña del Mar, the locals choice for a sun-drenched getaway. A mere 20 minutes away, it’s also within day-trippable reach.
Visiting Valpo from Santiago is entirely possible and many choose to only spend a few hours in the city. But if you have time, stay for a night or two and join those-in-the-know who spend more time here than in the capital…