Follow the paths of the San in Botswana

If there’s one word to sum up the Central Kalahari, it would be remote. Adventurous, wild and untrammelled, most come here for the experience of simply being and take in the magic of the unknown, desert landscape. Wildlife is not abundant, but sightings are very special and morning, afternoon and night game drives are available at all times of year. Sightings include magnificent Kalahari black-maned lion, cheetah, and desert-adapted antelope like oryx and springbok. In the green season (November to March) quantities of wildlife increase as animals gather at the sources of water. When the sun goes down, there’s a good chance of seeing honey badgers, brown hyena and servals. Alternatively, head out on foot and enjoy the intimate details of the desert, sometimes missed from a vehicle.

The other side to the Kalahari is the chance to absorb the culture of the San. One of the oldest peoples on earth, their traditions are complex and fascinating. Join the tribe on a walk, hunting, seeking out medicinal plants and tracking wildlife, or visit the village and take part in daily life.

The eerie, salt-cracked pans and the endless horizons of the Makgadikgadi Pans are well worth a visit on their own. But for a landscape that is seemingly so empty, there are plenty of things to keep you occupied – and some of them might not be quite what you expected! We’re talking interactions with the curious meerkats that call the pans home, quad bike safaris to Kubu Island, a sacred site in ancient folklore, fly camping under a star-spangled sky, fire dances and hunting lessons with the San people, and the chance to star gaze at one of the clearest skies in the southern hemisphere.

Then, in November, the rain begins to fall and it’s all change. The pans fill with water, attracting clouds of pink flamingos and splendid migrant birds, whilst zebra, springbok and wildebeest all gather to drink, followed closely by predators. This is undoubtedly the best time of year for game drives (always keep your eyes peeled for brown hyena too), as well as the chance to see the herds of Botswana’s zebra migration as they congregate on the pans.

The safari superstar of Southern Africa, the Okavango Delta sets the standard for wildlife and activities. Experiences are largely water- or land-based and the lodges tailor offerings according to their geography, whilst some offer both options. On the water, iconic mokoro safaris lead the way and are in their prime from April to October. Boat safaris are also possible but exploring at eye-level in the small, dugout mokoros is magical, taking you closer to the wildlife congregating on the banks and floating past elephants in the shallows. Wildlife-wise, red lechwe and aquatic sitatunga are highlights.

On land, day and night game drives will have you flexing your binos. Four out of the Big Five are common (not rhino), as well as African painted dog, zebra, unusual antelope (roan and sable) and a menagerie of birds. For big cats, day time sightings are fantastic, but head out at night to catch some of the real action. Make time for a walking safari to get into the nitty gritty of the animal kingdom and admire the juicy scenery – and, if there’s any time left, there are options to add hot air balloon flights, horseback safaris, or even a spot of fishing to your itinerary.