Namibia: safaris, dunes & shipwrecks

The largest salt pan in Africa and a magnet for wildlife, it’s safe to say that Etosha is about one thing, and one thing only: safari. Game viewing is centred around the waterholes. In this dry environment, the water attracts animals from far and wide and spending a few hours at the edge in a 4x4, binos at the ready, is a sure-fire wildlife win. You’ll more than likely spot elephant, rhino (white, and perhaps black), warthogs, and giraffe, with lions not far behind. Waterhole-watching isn’t limited to the daylight hours either with spotlights illuminating the water allowing you to catch the elusive night species.

Game drives depart twice a day (morning and afternoon), and occasionally, night drives may pop up, but when the sun goes down, you’ll probably want to be stationed at a waterhole. If you’re used to driving through grassy savannah, it’s a treat to bounce across the silver salt in search of desert species including black-faced impala, Hartmann’s zebra and the Damara dik-dik. A highlight is, of course, seeing black rhino, and Etosha’s population is famed as one of the most stable in the world.

This vast expanse of desert is one of Africa’s last unofficial wildernesses and the landscape is so colossal and so completely, eerily different to anything else, it’s hard to imagine until you’ve visited. A unique feature are the rocky outcrops, which are often home to exceptional San paintings. Twyfelfontein has some of the best and most well-preserved, but the Brandberg, Namibia’s highest mountain, also has beautiful examples. Why choose, both are certainly worth a trip.

When you’re not ogling the scenery, keep your eyes peeled for desert-adapted wildlife. Gemsbok and oryx are common, as are zebra and elephant, but black rhino are the stars of the show and with Save the Rhino Trust based in the area, sightings are excellent. Game drives are key for wildlife-spotting (you’ll cover larger distances) but walking safaris are also a must to discover the finer details of the desert and even track these rare rhino and elephant on foot. In some areas, horseback safaris are possible, as are trips to see the fascinating Petrified Forest, a 260-million-year-old phenomena.

You would be forgiven for thinking that not much survives in the foggy, mist-draped land of the Skeleton Coast, but head out on a 4x4 desert drive and let us prove you wrong. Guides are attuned to the movements of the wildlife and will lead you along the dry riverbeds in search of rare brown hyena, elephant, oryx, and, if you’re really lucky, desert-adapted lion. The extraordinary landscapes are really the star of the show, however, and drives are as much about exploring on foot, discovering magical desert oases, learning about the plant life, and delighting in the towering sand dunes. At the coast, add the mysterious shipwrecks and the honking seals of Africa’s largest Cape fur seal colony to your itinerary.

Then, there’s the magic of seeing the Skeleton Coast from the air. From a small, fixed wing plane, the sheer magnitude of the landscape comes alive and you’ll flit over gravel-strewn plains and the enigmatic coastline, cracked rivers and rolling dunes. Flight are hugely weather (and fog) dependent, but if there’s a chance to take to the skies, we recommend grabbing it with both hands.

Namibia’s self-titled ‘adventure’ capital, Swakopmund certainly has its fair share of heart-thumping, adrenalin-pumping activities for those so inclined. But it’s also a picturesque coastal town with a distinct German flavour (think apple pies and Art Nouveau architecture) and there’s much to offer for a sedate few days by the sea.

Falling into the former category are dune-related activities on the outskirts of town. From quad biking to sand boarding to fat biking, the sand dunes are king and helmets are key, and the sheer number of operators will leave you spoilt for choice. Sky diving trips also depart from here, and you’ll fall out of the sky over the spectacular Swakop River mouth.

Otherwise, there are walking tours to enjoy, catamaran cruises to indulge in, and shops and restaurants to peruse, all of which lend themselves to a peaceful morning or afternoon. If you’re spending longer in the area, try a day trip to Sandwich Harbour and marvel at the enormous dunes and vast wetlands, or enjoy a birds-eye view of the coast on a scenic fixed-wing flight.

Though it would be hard to call anywhere in Namibia crowded, Sossusvlei draws some of the most visitors by far, and NamibRand provides quieter yet equally beautiful alternatives to the most popular dunes. From your remote lodge or camp, there are terracotta sand dunes, massifs, and sparse grasslands as far as the eye can see.

The scenery is the main focus in NamibRand (it’s a favourite among photographers), but desert-adapted wildlife can be spotted on drives or horseback rides that allow you to get as close as possible to zebra, oryx and springbok. There’s also the chance to explore on foot and look for tok tokkie beetles, barking geckos and bat-eared foxes, and the ever-mysterious ‘fairy circles’ that have stumped visitors for decades.

The stargazing is breathtaking and should you be offered a sleep-out, say yes! For the best view possible and a lifelong memory, book a small-plane or hot air balloon flight over this surreal scene.