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Hidden away amid the mansions and Mercedes of Delhi’s upmarket Defence Colony district, the Colonel’s Retreat is the kind of place that makes you feel as if you’ve just returned home. Run by, well, the Colonel (and his family), there are smiles a-plenty, warm banana bread on arrival and loads of Indian hospitality to go around. A converted house, each floor has a sitting area and several bedrooms giving it delightfully higgledy-piggeldy feel and the décor is traditional and lovely. Conveniently located near the Lajpat Nagar Market, plenty of restaurants and the Metro Line to Old Delhi, use the Retreat as a base for an exploration and you’ll feel like you’ve known the city for years.
From $60 person/night
The roof terrace. From breakfast in the morning to dinner at night, you’ll come to love the leafy, tree-shaded oasis.
You’ll have to give some notice if you’d like to eat in the evening, but the butter chicken is the best in town, hands down.
This is not designer-chic by any means, but when the hospitality is this good, it doesn’t matter.
Originally a much-loved, family home, the mansion has been cleverly converted into a 16-bedroom B&B. A cool marble staircase decorated with pretty tree motifs leads from the front door up to the higher levels and each floor has a large sitting area, stocked with plenty of books and magazines. Puff your way all the way to the top and reward yourself with tea and cakes on the umbrella-topped roof terrace, a lovely reprieve from the busyness of town.
All 16 bedrooms are unique in size, shape and design. Some are doubles, some are twins; some are rather big and some are not so large! But all are bright and airy and bedecked in Indian art, local photographs, and pretty textiles. En-suite bathrooms have walk-in showers, plenty of hot water and a fat stack of white, fluffy towels.
The Metro Line is a stone’s throw away and for around £1, you’ll be in the heart of Old Delhi for sights like Jama Masjid Road, the Red Fort and the spice market. If you don’t fancy braving the subway, hire a driver (Colonel’s Retreat can do it for you) and head to Humayan’s Tomb (a 10-minute drive away) or nearby Lodhi Gardens and the lovely shops at the Kahn Market.
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