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The Lower Omo Valley is home to eight distinct groups of people who each carve out a simple, rural existence amid a beautiful but brutal landscape. Sadly, their way of life is increasingly threatened by development, one being the construction of a hydroelectric dam that is slowly destroying the habitat. Meanwhile, these ancient people maintain their distinct languages, dress and customs. Jinka lies en route to the area, and travellers usually overnight in the town. Jinka Resort, with its green grounds a short distance from the town centre, is the smartest rest option available.
From $30 person/night
The lodge's cheerful paint and the fabulous tropical gardens.
Take the opportunity to try the local fare at the restaurant; ingredients are hard to come by in these parts and authentic is best!
The grounds are poorly lit at night so keep your flashlight handy.
Mature trees and pleasantly wild gardens surround the lodge, which has at its heart a bright orange- and blue-trimmed restaurant and bar with breezy alfresco seating at long tables. There's a good range of beverages in stock; the food here is simple (chicken dishes stend to be tough, so we suggest you stick to pizza or pasta, or local rice dishes with aromatic sauces and injera (bread). Concrete verandas provide shelter from the heat, as do a couple of thatched umbrellas.
Rooms are simple, consisting of little more than beds (comfy and clean) with mosquito nets. En-suite bathrooms have showers (mostly hot, powered by electric geysers). Tiled floors keep things cool-ish (there is no aircon or fan), and a small porch out front lets you sit and gaze into the garden. There are camping sites for those who come bearing tents, with shared bathroom facilities but no kitchen.
It's a long, hard journey to South Omo, but what magnificent social and cultural landscapes this region offers. (Ever heard of the bull-jumping coming-of-age ceremony performed by the Hamar; the lip-plate worn by Surma and Mursi women; the white-painted men and boys?) These people have lived here for centuries, and you should visit this area with sensitivity and a measure of humility. A guide is a must, as is travelling during the dry season (end June–September, and November–early March).