Tucked among Stone Town's winding alleys, where stalls offer heaped bowls of cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon, and the walls are ablaze with curios, sunshine-bright fabrics and local artworks, is an alley that is unexpectedly quiet. And it's here, behind a traditionally ornate wooden door, that you'll find 170-year-old Kisiwa House. Built by a wealthy Omani merchant as a family home, the house is now a modern boutique hotel. Kisiwa (Swahili for 'island') was one of Stone Town's first buildings, so there's a profound sense of history embedded in its walls, antique furniture and original photographs of past residents.
The house was occupied for 170 years by generations of the same family, whose furniture, fixtures and photographs scattered throughout the lounge areas lend a homely Zanzibari charm that combines wealthy Arabic and Swahili style. Rich red-tiled flooring opens to an expansive central lounge area with high wooden ceilings and stairs leading to the rooms and, on the roof, the restaurant. The cuisine is a fusion of traditional and continental specialities, incorporating the island’s aromatic spices. Wi-fi is available throughout as well.
The steep, rather grandly carved wooden staircase leads to nine en-suite rooms, ranging in size from the simple Burdani rooms to the large Sulaima suites. All are beautifully decorated to combine traditional Swahili decor (including brass-studded doors) with the latest in European style. Wooden beams run across the ceilings, plush Persian rugs are scattered around modern desks and lounge chairs. There are no balconies, but most rooms have traditional barred windows that open to reveal views of the streets below.
You won't have to venture far to experience the bustle of daily life here. Stone Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with plenty of historical landmarks to look out for – the best is simply to arm yourself with a map and get out and explore. Prefer a guide? Request one from a reputable tour company. If you have time, visit Prison Island, follow the Spice Route, and see the red colobus monkeys at Jozani-Chawaka Bay National Park.
Enjoying the views of the ocean from the rooftop bar and restaurant while the everyday sounds of Stone Town's busy streets float up from below.
The accommodations differ greatly in size so be sure to request a roomier one if you fancy more space in which to spread out.
Stairs leading up to the hotel's three storeys are steep, in typical Swahili style, so Kisiwa is not suitable if you're physically challenged. First-floor rooms can be affected by noise from the alleys
A time capsule in Zanzibar's capital with a head-turning maze of unique architecture and history.