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Lalibela, one of Ethiopia's most impressive architectural sites, is still an important place of pilgrimage for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, who flock to worship at its 11 rust-coloured churches excavated and crafted from the rock in the late 12th century. The craftsmanship, sense of mystery and, for many, spirituality, is omnipresent here – it's no surprise that this is a World Heritage Site. Lalibela Lodge is within easy distance of the churches, perched on a terraced hillside overlooking trees and the city. With lush gardens, warm staff and a good on-site restaurant, this is one of the more well-rounded affordable options.
From $50 person/night
Enjoying a coffee in the lush gardens on the property is a perfect, nearly holy, ritual in itself.
The dimensions of churches such as Bet Giyorgis (St George's) are unique. Savour their bulk from above and below, inside and out – they're truly awe-inspiring.
Experiencing a night vigil during one of the religious festivals is to experience beauty and ceremony and devotion.
Just strolling through the grounds of the lodge, you'll be treated to views of the city and mountains, plus attractive birdlife. It's a peaceful place to wander, or sit outside in the sun and enjoy a picnic. The on-site restaurant has plenty of options if you're eager to sample the local fare (sour pancake-bread, injera; spicy marinated chicken, doro wat; for vegetarians, potato and cabbage, atikilt wat), and plenty of familiar international favourites too. Views from the terrace are exceptional.
Most of the accommodation is in connected single-storey cottages, with patios and garden access, strung along the hillside. All have large comfortable beds, and en-suite facilities with shower and reasonably reliable hot water. The new wing's larger (and pricier) units have flatscreen TV and a tub. Executive suites are more spacious with an upper-deck terrace sporting an outdoor fireplace. Suites can accommodate a family in one single and two double beds, and have a lounge with a TV and aircon.
Clean and comfortable with a decent restaurant, Lalibela Lodge doesn't over-promise, but delivers the basics with faultless dependability.
Spending a few days at Lalibela is necessary to do it justice. We recommend you hire a reputable guide to appreciate the area's history and stories, then explore on your own to take in the aesthetic beauty and ancient atmosphere. Wander the several churches, narrow corridors, and underground tunnels of this complex and let history impress itself upon you. Other must-see sites include Yemrehanna Kristos (a 90-minute drive north), a beautifully preserved church that predates Lalibela by some 80 years.