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Colonial romance meets contemporary design here at Maison Gallieni, a boutique hotel perched high on a hill overlooking Madagascar's hectic capital city. Below lies the urban fray, and other, larger hotel competition. Built in 1879 on an old granite quarry, Maison Gallieni was once the headquarters of the country's first bank. Today, the orange-brick structure houses the Consul of Monaco (basically, you're staying in the ambassador's house). While Tana often feels busy and bewildering, Maison Gallieni offers a very different take. We like the building's simple interiors, the four gorgeous bedrooms, the fine-dining cuisine (of course!), and the peace.
From $90 person/night
The rock girding the grounds could be an element of a carefully landscaped garden though this pretty feature is au naturel.
Choose between the second-floor room and lovely views of the city or one of the three rooms on the ground floor that lead onto the terrace or gardens.
Many guests feel Maison lacks a decent cocktail offering - if you want to enjoy a leisurely drink pre-dinner, you can actually bring your own.
This gracious building typifies French belle époque style in its recessed walls, elaborate cornices and crowning cupola. The first two floors are open to guests (consul offices occupy the third), inviting you to relax in the lounge, on the wide terrace, in the lush rear garden, or beside the heated pool. Upstairs, breakfast is served at a communal table. (This is a B&B establishment, but do book dinner – the chef is rumoured to prepare the best Franco-Malagasy dishes around.)
The four rooms (three on the ground floor with a library; the larger Gallieni room with the living and dining areas up the spiral stairs) are each charmingly decorated. Exposed brick meet white-plastered walls and wood-framed windows to keep the mood unfussy; four-poster beds are fitted with good mattresses and crisp linens. There's plenty of closet space, along with a writing desk, flat-screen TV, safe, tea- and coffee-making station, aircon and wi-fi.
Cruising Tana's busy streets is unlikely your motive for visiting Madagascar, but the city is certainly worth investigating. Its history of royalty, tumult and conquest is a fascinating foil for the rest of the country's beaches and coastlines, tropical and arid spiny forests, and all the attendant biodiversity. You'll find the capital thrumming with a colourful confusion of French, Southeast Asian and various tribal identities. Don't miss the markets and the elevated views from the the 17th-century palace of Manjakamiadana.
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