Ndutu Safari Lodge

Built of stone, the large main area houses the restaurant and bar (with its resident genets). The decor is simple, with wicker chairs in the bar area, hardwood tables and chairs for dining, and horns on the walls showing the camp's hunting past. A small birdbath sits about 20 metres from the restaurant, where you can watch Fischer's lovebirds and a host of other birds. Outside, the fire pit is perfect for chats, making plans, and stargazing. There is also a luxury spa to enjoy a little pampering.

Thirty-four stone-and-thatch rooms extend in a line on either side of the main area. While not particularly well-spaced, they're solidly built, clean and comfortable, with decent beds and linens, private lake-view verandas, and basic but adequate en-suite bathrooms with hot showers. Twenty-six cottages have twin or double beds; five have an extra singe bed to sleep three. One family room accommodates two adults and two children, and the two "honeymoon cottages" are outfitted with king-sized beds made from Zanzibari dhows.

Ndutu is a magnet for photographers, especially during the migration, but also attracted by the good sightings year-round – intriguing birds, and resident lion, leopard, cheetah, giraffe, buffalo and elephant populations. Take a two-hour walking safari through the woodland areas of Ngorongoro Conservation Area with a park ranger, or visit the Olduvai Gorge museum just an hour's drive away. Note that there are no guides on staff – your activities are led by the private guide who accompanied you here.