Whilst Ethiopia as a country isn’t exactly ‘on the beaten track’, if you really want to get away from the tourist-trodden trails, head to the Gheralta Mountains of northern Tigray. A treasure trove of historical and cultural customs, the 200 churches carved high into the rock are the real treat and far less visited than their more famous counterparts in Lalibela. The striking landscape also lends itself perfectly to a spot of walking and trekking; options include vertiginous hikes to the churches buried deep in the hills or more sedate strolls to intricately-painted monasteries. Accommodation-wise, most hotels are based in the towns of Mekele and Hawzen, both excellent bases for a historical exploration of the region and trips to the otherworldly Danakil Depression.