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Lake Malawi aside, what else might you stumble across in southern Malawi? Let us introduce you to Zomba, a spectacular mountain and forest reserve dominated by Zomba Plateau, a statuesque 1800-metre monolith. The massif might not be as dramatic as Mount Mulanje, but it's hard to beat for a spot of leisurely hiking and outdoor exploring. Meander along the trails that crisscross the summit; enjoy the views of old Zomba town below; cycle through the trees (admiring the large tracts of cedar, pine and cypress); and cool your toes in the clear waterfalls. Or fish in the trout dams. Who needs a lake?