Sri Lanka's Secret Side

Negombo feels like a town lost in time, where a stroll will take you past a patchwork of Dutch canals, pastel-coloured churches, bright little boats and ever-waving palms. If you're heading for Sri Lanka's cultural heartlands next, get in some beach time or enjoy watersports on the lagoon. And it's worth catching the atmosphere at Negombo's sunrise fish market. Head a little ways out of town to visit the impressive Angurukaramulla temple, watched over by a 6-metre-high Buddha.

A collection of lakes sprinkled across the plains, Wilpattu National Park is starkly different to the rest of Sri Lanka. Free from strict timings or trails, game drives are bound to be eventful. Along the way, you could spot elephants, sloth bears, purple-faced langurs, rare barking deer, mugger crocodiles and leopards. On nighttime excursions, look (and listen) out for more secretive creatures like the mongoose and miniature loris. If you're feeling really adventurous, head out on a guided bush walk where you'll learn the art of tracking. There is also a marvellous bird variety including peacocks, hornbills, flocks of white egrets and spoonbills. You can't go wrong with a cruise on a traditional 'oruwa' raft, clinking G&Ts as the sun sets.

One of the most otherworldly places in Sri Lanka, Sigiriya has to be seen to be fully comprehended. Surrounded by swathes of deep green jungle, the 200-metre-high rock fortress is already striking from miles away or floating overhead in a hot air balloon. If you'd prefer to see it up-close, begin the journey at dawn, climbing over 1,200 steps until you reach the top. Once there, explore its beautiful terraced gardens, canals and pools, and marvel at the Sky Palace, all of which were built in the 5th century. For a more tourist-free view of the fortress, climb nearby Pidurangala rock. The Minneriya and Kaudulla National Parks aren't far away, and if you're visiting between June and September, you could witness the largest annual gathering of Asian elephants.

The southernmost point of the Cultural Triangle and the gateway to Sri Lanka's Hill Country, Kandy is the destination that has it all. Delve into its history on a walkabout or tuk tuk ride through the city, admiring the ornate architecture and stopping at the iconic Temple of the Sacred Tooth where you can see Buddha's tooth. You can really get under the skin of Kandy with a visit to its markets or a lesson in traditional drumming. Natural beauty abounds and a stroll alongside the lake is a must, its surface reflecting the soaring hills and mountains, or enjoy the cool atmosphere of its once-royal gardens. Set your sights a little further afield for a day of hiking in the Knuckles Mountains or spending time with elephants on their own turf.

Known for the highest hills in the Hill Country, Ella sits at a lofty 1,000 metres-above-sea-level and the surrounding peaks rise even taller. Admiring the view from as many angles as possible will likely be your focus and boy are you in for a treat, especially if you reach the Ella Gap where you can see all the way to the south coast. Make the train journey across the impressive Nine Arch Bridge or hike there with a picnic - and your camera! Speaking of which, there are walking trails to suit every visitor, whether it's a gentle amble amongst the tea rows or a trek to the top of Ella's Peak - breathtaking.

The closest thing to a city on the balmy South Coast, Galle is bursting with history yet has an entirely modern side complete with fine dining and art galleries. Get your bearings with a cycle along its quaint streets, then enjoy a wander (guided or solo) through the famous Fort where Portuguese, Dutch and English rule is still evident in the architecture. And don't miss watching the sunset from the ramparts! Take to the sea for a fishing excursion or whale-watching catamaran sail with an on-board expert to decipher their every move; or venture a little ways inland for a cinnamon farm tour or forest hike.

Put aside the idea of Colombo as a pitstop and nothing more, and spend a day or two getting in touch with Sri Lanka's capital city. Hop in a tuk tuk and head off to explore its intricate architecture from the Old Dutch Hospital to the striking Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque, delve into the city's artistic side and learn about its history at the National Museum. Get to know the people of Colombo during a cooking lesson with a local chef, wandering through the markets at Pettah or catching a game of cricket.