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Etendeka lies at the foothills of the Grootberg massif, a north-Namibian treasure surrounded by ancient lava flows, dramatic flat-topped mesas and giant boulders. Nature and its conservation are the prime focus at this small lodge, which has earned awards for the courtesy it shows to the land. Yet human creature comforts have not been overlooked. Water runs hot and cold, the loos are flushable, the beds are large and comfortable, and there's wi-fi. The camp may have a slight military-base atmosphere, but it's the perfect place from which to explore the Grootberg and its rich collection of desert-adapted wildlife.
From $190 person/night
Walking the desert, which is laced and studded with semi-precious minerals and sparkling crystals. Magical.
Witnessing the animals that have adjusted their habits to accommodate the harshness of their surroundings – the desert elephant (and other members of the Big Five), African wild cat, aardwolf, Hartmann’s mountain zebra and a host of little creatures, some cute and others more adrenalin-inducing.
Contemplating the unforgiving environment – when temperatures soar during, plummet at night and rain is rare – knowing that you are being safely cared for yet far off the beaten tourist route.
Simple, fresh and wholesome meals are prepared using solar power or on fires and are served communally in the open-sided central dining area, furnished with a long table, directors' chairs and an overhead fan. The seating area is huge, with stone walls, an open bar and strategically placed seating areas facing the views.
Stay in one of 10 meru-style tents, which are reached from the dining tent via pathways. They're all equipped simply but very comfortably, with en-suite bathrooms (flush toilets, hot and cold running water) and outside bucket showers that work far more efficiently than you may think. Outside is a shaded veranda with chairs in which to settle with a drink and watch the passing wildlife cavalcade, or view the stars.
What a wonderful experience. The accommodation was spartan but very comfortable; it was good to be able to get out of our safari vehicle and explore on foot; dining was family style and good; and the crystal desert was a first for us all. Watch the mesas closely. You may be lucky enough to see elephants clambering to the summit. We had no idea that elephants could climb.
Explore the area on foot or in open safari vehicles with knowledgeable guides. This environment incorporates most of Namibia’s unique natural attractions – desert-adapted wildlife (including the threatened black rhino), basalt mountains and riverbeds shaded by mopane trees. Look out for herds of oryx, lion, mountain zebra and, between the rocks, insects and scorpions (your guide is eagle-eyed). Talking of eagles, birders should keep their binoculars at hand to spot the rare long-billed lark or a snake-eagle snatching up a scorpion.
Wonderful! The walking trail is spectacular with an added bonus of being able to sleep under the stars.
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