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It's a long drive from Antananarivo to Setam Lodge, nine hours in total, but it's worth every second of the journey. The lodge is in a paradise setting, perched on a slope overlooking the 101,313-acre (410-square-kilometre) Ranomafana National Park, with its dense rainforest sheltering otherworldly creatures – sifaka, lemur, tenrec, bat, Malagasy striped civet and a host of smaller animals that seem to combine classroom art with the world's prehistoric origins. The lodge itself is clean and comfortable, the food is good and ample, and the mist-shrouded forest is enthralling. Don't expect glitz – Setam is for serious travellers.
From $30 person/night
The scenery. The forest changes mood according to the light, and it's easy to spend hours watching the view from your private veranda.
Birders can tick 115 or so species, some of which may appear in the lodge's grounds.
The animals are the park's superheroes. From sifakas, 12 lemur species, seven species of tenrecs, eight bats and carnivores such as the Malagasy striped civet, the creatures are weird and wonderful.
The glass-walled dining area is a beautiful place to have a meal. The menus are limited but fresh and filling (peanuts are often used, so mention if you have any allergies). Service can be slow, especially if the lodge is full, so it may be wise to order your food beforehand and arrive on time. Don't miss the fish curry! Take coffee on the terrace to enjoy the uninterrupted views. Wi-fi is free but often slow.
There are 20 rooms, each with a private terrace and wide views of the forests. All are clean and spacious, with tiled floors and simple, perfectly adequate fixtures and furnishings. There's aircon, a heater, a fan, large netted beds with good linen and en-suite bathroom shower, toilet and basin (hot water on tap). The atmosphere throughout is light and airy.
We loved the silence and serenity, and were comfortable in our spacious room (and its heater when evenings became chilly!). A warning: The lodge is on a hill and there are steps to the rooms so anyone with mobility issues would find this difficult; and take sufficient local currency – there are no cash machines or banks nearby.
Ranomafana National Park is one of the most visited protected areas in Madagascar, and it's easy to understand why. It opens at 07:00, so head off early and employ the services of a park guide – the guides know the pathways well. Lemurs are obviously a huge attraction, but look closely and you could see red-bodied giraffe weevil, prehistoric-looking gecko species, giant chameleon and the comet moth, one of the biggest moths in the world.