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Delve into the Arab chronicles and ancient Moroccan histories, and there is one name that appears time and time again: Fez. The epicentre of politics, culture, trade and religion, it was one of the finest cities in the Arab world, glittering with awe, intrigue, and success. Today, life remains firmly rooted in the glory of times gone by, and many of the inhabitants still live in the medina city of Fes el Bali, the most glorious of Morocco’s medinas and an assault to the senses in every way. Here, electricity is the only nod to modernity - back alleys are crammed with exquisite medersahs and pack-laden donkeys, and labyrinthine streets weave and wander past mosques, monuments and the whispy aromas of tagine. And the best way to see it? Don your best walking shoes and go for it. The more lost you become, the more you’ll discover just why Fez is so brilliant...
Apart from everything else, Fez is the culinary capital of Morocco. Save space for a slice of pastilla, the great Fassi delicacy of pigeon pie, at least once; and the delicious bisara, a fava-bean soup flavoured with cumin.
Escape the crowds in nearby Meknes, a sleepy hilltop city crammed full of souks selling crafts and carpets, ornate riads, and the unrivalled Grand Mosque.
Often described as Marrakesh before the tourists, Fez, with its snail-selling vendors, nostril-tingling tanneries and propensity for pandemonium, is not for the faint-hearted!