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The chief seaport of Madagascar, Toamasina (also known as Tamatave) is tucked away at the top of a long finger of rainforest on the eastern side of the island. From early beginnings as a pirate hang-out to a modern-day city of commerce, it’s a chaotic, atmospheric place that makes a convenient stopover between Tana and Nosy Boraha. But hidden between the stilted, Creole buildings and rickshaw-filled roads are some nuggets worth exploring – the Manda fort, the ‘baazar be’ market and the waterfront spring to mind. But, if the city bustle gets the better of you, a quick drive will take you to pretty Port Fluvial, a series of lakes and bobbing pirogues, the sandy beaches of Foulepoints, and Mahambo and its laidback surfers.