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On a bluff overlooking an acacia valley in the 60,000-acre (24,200-hectare) Lekurruki Community Ranch in central Kenya, Tassia Lodge elegantly captures the essence of this country and its people. Things are stripped back here – don't come looking for the Big Five (though rhino, elephant, leopard and lion can be seen); don't expect action-packed game drives (though you may well get one); don't anticipate an opulent five-star stay (though food is excellent and the furnishings tasteful). Instead, visit Tassia for a pure experience of Africa, with guided bush walks led with knowledge and passion by manager Martin Wheeler's incredible team.
From $610 person/night
The Tassia team is passionate about safari, but here this word, Swahili for "journey", means more than a trek from one point to another. Martin and his staff hope you encounter the people and space and leave forever changed.
Everything about the lodge shows real inspiration, from its wall-less structures and exquisite use of local wood and stone to the swings. Few people would leave without being touched by the really well-conceived connection between the buildings and the elements.
Your senses will be coaxed to new life on a botanical walk with a local Masai guide. Learn about the plants and their medicinal uses, and the numerous insects, with your expert teacher.
Moulded onto a rocky bluff above a broad valley, the lodge's structures almost disappear into the landscape. The architecture is astonishing, combining thatched roofs and barely there rock walls to highlight the main feature – the view. The central lounge incorporates several seating areas with broad sofas perfect for full-body lazing. There's a well-stocked bar and a dining area, though meals shift, often happening under the stars. The decor is subtly Moroccan, and the pool enjoys the same valley views.
Six spacious rooms continue the trend of embracing the outdoors, with open sides, though all are extremely private and secure. Inside, all incorporate a luxuriously large bed draped with mosquito netting, a seating area and a large en-suite bathroom with a shower. Two of the rooms are family-friendly, with space for an extra bed. The use throughout of natural colours, stone floors and walls and rustic wooden furniture means that the rooms are elegantly understated but lack no crucial comfort.
You'll wish you could linger here. Spend at least three nights after a safari to get the real benefit of Tassia's tranquil atmosphere.
Walks are the primary activity (there's just one game-viewing vehicle) and vary in length and emphasis. Treks with Martin focus on tracks and searching for game; those with a local guide incorporate information about the people, plants, animals and Masai history (ask to see the caves where people once lived). Visit a local village, investigate one of Tassi's community projects, see Martin's rehabilitation centre for birds of prey, or arrange a night-time camel safari and bush sleep-out (extra cost).
Show all wildlife
The greatest conservation success of the region remains with the black rhino, almost half of Kenya's entire population can be found in this area. Laikipia is a real up-and-comer on the African safari circuit, with an impressive diversity of unique species, not to mention home to the famous Big 5. Encounter elephants, big cats (often collared for research purposes), buffalo, Grevy's zebra, numerous antelope and more recently, an increasing wild dog population. Laikipia consist of a mix of high altitude grassland, dotted with rocky outcrops, low lying bush and patches of riverine forest.