Bush, beach & gorillas in Uganda & Zanzibar

Uganda’s pretty second city is a delight to wander around should you find yourself in town for a couple of nights. The city is divided into two main ‘districts’ – Entebbe Town and the suburb of Kitoro. Kitoro is where you’ll find most of the restaurants, markets and bars, ideal for sampling the local culture and cuisine and whiling away a few hours.

Most people are inevitably drawn to the peaceful shores of Lake Victoria. Away from the hustle and bustle of town, sundowners on the edge of the water are an end-of-the-day must, especially if you find a spot on the sand complete with beach-side loungers and umbrellas.

Despite a slight lack of sightseeing opportunities, trips can be easily organised to the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre and the Botanic Gardens on land, or take a boat to the Ngamaba Island Chimp Sanctuary. Speaking of boats, cruising around the swampy shores of Lake Victoria yield excellent opportunities to find the exotic shoebill stork, which would surely be the cherry on top of any visit to Entebbe!

The most popular ‘safari’ destination in Uganda, game drives are firmly on the menu in Queen Elizabeth. Most lodges offer two drives a day – one in the early morning with the rising sun, and one later in the afternoon usually at around 4pm. Wildlife-wise, the park is famous for tree-climbing lions in the Ishasha Sector, but you may not know that four of the Big Five are present (sadly no rhino) and enormous herds of buffalo and elephant can often be spotted on the open plains. Interestingly, giant forest hogs, elusive in many other areas, are relatively easy to see too.

Away from four wheels, there’s plenty going on. Boat trips down the Kazinga Channel are excellent for bird-watching (and G&Ts and sunsets if birding isn’t your thing), and walks to spot the chimpanzee in Kyambura Gorge are always lively! At some lodges, there are community visits to the local coffee plantations and even dawn hot air balloon trips, making for a full Ugandan experience.

With more than 400 mountain gorilla calling Bwindi home, your days here will more than likely revolve around trekking with the iconic primates. Most guests opt for two treks over a two or three-day stay. Treks depart in the morning (after a hearty breakfast) and, depending on where the gorillas are located, can last up to four or five hours. Trackers will advise on their location in the morning, but come prepared for a long(ish) walk – it all adds to the experience!

While seeing a gorilla is the highlight of any Bwindi stay, spending time in the forest is magical in a different way. Stuffed full of birds – 350 species to be precise – and butterflies, insects and mammals, a walk with an experienced guides will reveal a hidden world. It’s also possible to spot chimpanzee, various monkeys and antelope like bushbuck and forest duiker. For culture-seekers, spend time with the locals of Buhoma village, and discover the rituals of the ancient Batwa tribe, the ‘Keepers of the Forest.’

Nairobi hides many an interesting pastime under it’s not-so-shiny reputation and, if you find yourself in the city, you may even wish you had a few more nights to spare.

Most of the action happens in the luxurious garden suburb of Karen. A typical day might include a morning with the orphaned elephants at the David Sheldrick Trust, time at the Karen Blixen museum (and a coffee and a slice of cake), and end with a giraffe ‘kiss’ at the centre at Giraffe Manor. We recommend hiring a driver to take you around the sights, and perhaps adding a dinner stop at one of the up-and-coming restaurants.

If you’re missing your daily wildlife fix - or desperate to get started – Nairobi is one of the only cities in the world to have a national park on the doorstep. It’s home to four of the Big Five (no elephant), game viewing is good, and there’s even a short walk at the entrance. A half- or full-day trip from the city is easy to arrange and your driver will stay with you for the duration.

Think of Zanzibar, think of powdery sand, lapping waves and a sun lounger? Well, yes, Zanzibar has them all by the bucket-load, but there’s plenty beyond the beach too. Water babies can take their pick from just about every ocean activity under the sun, be it snorkelling, kayaking, kite surfing or SUPing. Depending on the hotel, these can be done in-house or from a local water-sports centre that will provide the equipment and an instructor, (particularly for scuba-diving). A sundowner aboard a traditional dhow is also a must; again, many hotels have their own boat or will arrange one for you.

On land, Stone Town is a hub of colour and culture, shopping and spices, and worth a wander (with a guide or without) especially in the evening when the markets come to life. Spice Tours are famous for a reason, and lesser-known but equally as enticing activities include Jozani Forest and Prison Island. Details vary from place to place, but all activities can be arranged through your hotel in advance, or simply decide when you arrive.